Ben BossRussian reindeer leather is top-quality leather in the world. It is sought-after for its rugged appearance, strength and practicality.
Novgorod shoemakers developed four basic types of shoes. A close connection between these artisans and the marketplace was characteristic during this time. Shoes were broad and symmetrical at the front, and had narrow heels.
Traditional Russian footwear
The Valenki boots (also known as volnushechki or vykhodki) are heavy, wool-filled winter boot that are issued to Russian soldiers and police officers. These rugged boots which literally translates to “made through felting” are a Russian heritage of the Mongol tribes. They were so costly that they covered the feet of tsars and empresses.
Valenki made by hand are extremely durable and long-lasting, but they can also be extremely time-consuming and labor intensive. The felt is molded and then rolled into a boot-like shape by craftsmen which is then placed in a steam bath and allow it to shrink. It takes a few hours to create the valenki boot, which can run into the hundreds.
Despite their high cost, the traditional boots have remained in style throughout Russia’s long history of winters. In the past two decades they’ve lost their popularity as people prefer lightweight, waterproof shoes.
Many of the younger Russians are rediscovered their fondness for the traditional shoes. Olga Shantseva and Galina Shantzeva, twins living in Moscow, create birchbark footwear which is decorated with Soviet-era art, making them extremely popular with young artists. The Russian brand of valenki also has gained a lot of traction internationally. It is yet to be determined whether the boots will gain a wider following, but they are certainly seeing a revival of fashion in Russia.
Ancient Russian leather shoes
The study of ethnographic, archeological and written documents allows us to reconstruct the development of footwear during the time of ancient Rus’. The number of shoes made of leather found during the excavations that were conducted during different times in Novgorod’s life suggests that shoemakers of all categories were involved in making shoes for the artisanal as well as nobility classes.
Lapti, soft footwear made of small pieces of tree bark, often made of birch. They were worn by the common folk out in the country. They were secured with rawhide laces that were passed through the side slits on the sole and wound around feet. Also, they were worn over socks and windings.
Hand-embossing hatch grain patterns can be present on the oldest Russian boots. The most desirable Russian reindeer hide is now tanned by machine to make it durable and hardwearing. The leather is frequently compared to the best horsehide, however unlike it, it’s not stiff, which makes it a good choice for shoemaking.
The first shoes made of felt were known as valenki. The name derives from their manufacturing method. The wool was compressed with an instrument called “valenka”. It’s a wood block with a flat top and numerous holes through which wool is being rolled. The process is referred to as “valyat” in Russia, meaning rolling. After a certain time felt boots were made using other materials too. To provide additional insulation they could be filled with animal hair or hay. The heel quarter would then be strengthened with layers of leather or a birch-bark lining.
Medieval Russian shoe designs
The medieval Russian giay tay nam made of leather was based on the birchbark shoes worn by peasants. They were worn over the stockings or nogavits and windings [obmotok]. The shoe’s fastening was accomplished through long strings, obory, which were passed through the sides of the lapti, and wound around the shoe. The shoe also had a sole of Larch bark or fir. This footwear was very comfortable for walking in, and also very durable.
The artisan who worked on the shoe needed to be exceptionally skilled in order to make an excellent product. It’s not a surprise that so many pieces of this kind of shoe were found in archeological layers dating from the 10th-13th centuries.
According to the First Novgorod Chronicle, at the time there were distinct groups of leatherworkers and shoemakers. This is confirmed through the fact that one could only be a shoemaker if there was an establishment where he sews footwear.
Bakhily, also known as Bredni (also known as brodni), butyli (also known by the names ostashi, lovchagi, and lovchagi), are masculine hunting and work boots made from soft leather. These were jackboots, with high tops that reached to the knees or thighs. The boots were made of a sturdy material and could be used for a long period of time in the woods. They were also worn by fishermen and hunters.
Soviet-era Russian footwear
The Soviet period witnessed a decline in traditional Russian shoemaking because the new generation of shoemakers preferred modern footwear imported from Western countries. This was due to a mix of factors, including the lack of interest in handmade products among the youth and the increasing availability of factory-made shoes, and a shift in the taste.
Galoshes were the shoes of choice during this period. They were constructed of felt, and they were worn over other shoes to guard against freezing temperatures and snow, and to ensure that feet were warm. The leather pieces were positioned on top of each other and joined before being sewn with blind or hidden stitching.
The footwear made from bast (birch bark) was also common particularly during the Kazan Khanate (1438-1552), that had been a descendant of the culture, traditions and craft after the Mongol victory. These were similar to regular boots, but were shorter in length and did not have an inner liner. The shoes were fastened with long strings, obory, which ran along the sides of the lapti and wound around the legs.
Novgorod leatherworkers were reputed to specialize in bootlegs that were short and straight sides. These were known as golenishcha or golenicha. Their heights were 17-22 centimeters. Archeological excavations in this period’s layers have revealed the presence of iron Adzes [3] which were used to clear the flesh of leather as well as subcutaneous tissue.